Wellington

Approaching Wellington on the ferry from the South Island

Wellington is a phenomenally windy place. I imagine it is due to its location near the south shore of the North Island, in the South Pacific and near the Southern Ocean. The South Island is its only opportunity for a little shelter, but the offset positions of the two islands don't allow for that. My first time there, crossing the single street between the ferry terminal and my hotel late at night, I'd thought I wasn't going to make it, that the wind would in fact prevail and the gusts would launch me onto my ass. I managed to cross the street somehow.

It is also the capital of New Zealand and the launching point of the ferry to the South Island, which carries not only tourists but many cars, Kiwis and ample goods to serve residents of the South Island. Strangely, though, in all of my research, planning, travelling and conversations, Wellington was never mentioned much as a place to see. It seems a bit forgotten, though it also seems very livable.

My first visit to the city included arriving in time for 8 hours of sleep, and the next day (September 14th) I'd crossed from Wellington (North Island) to Picton (South Island). It sounds like a very long time ago now. Only now in writing this do I realize that I crossed back exactly one month later, on October 14th. This time, I would spend 4 days exploring Wellington before catching the Northern Explorer train headed north to National Park.

Much like so many of the cities in New Zealand and Australia, Wellington is situated on a small flat next to a harbor, that quickly transitions a few blocks away to a huge, steep hillside, terminating the street grid and urban fabric. However, the hillside offers the opportunity for a cable car connecting to hillside and hilltop residential areas, and also to the Botanical Garden inhabiting the other side of the ridge. The cable car is a cute ride about four stops, and at the top are the gate to the Garden as well as great views of Wellington Harbor. Walking downhill through the garden, the often-steep path connects to several outstanding botanical displays. Passing beyond the garden, an interesting residential neighborhood energes with historic homes and a neighborhood retail district, with a way back to the city core. A fun walk.

Below: Maori iconography on the walk signs

As the capitol of the nation, Wellington is the home of the national museum, one whose name I'd heard uttered multiple times with reverence: "Te Papa". It is a lovely museum, with my favorite exhibit being an early New Zealand flag dedicated to an important signer of Te Teriti (the 1840 agreement between the Crown and the Maori to share New Zealand, the Treaty of Waitangi). Te Papa has a very good natural-and-settlement history exhibit, and often features blockbuster exhibitions - on my visit, the subject was Gallipoli.

The capitol "district" itself was fairly small, with Parliament and the adjacent iconic "Beehive" executive offices inhabiting a block, and multiple national agencies within a one- or two-block radius. The Beehive has come to represent the NZ government as a whole in nomenclature, much like the "White House" refers to the US Presidency.

Also as part of this district were three cathedrals, with two being "St. Paul's", an old version and a new version, both incredibly beautiful but in particular the newer reinforced concrete architecture is unusually modernist and beautiful. The structure also features amazing art, stained glass and a wood-framed historic "Lady Chapel". (See more information here.) As the Wellington Cathedral of the Anglican church, I wonder whether it is a "national cathedral". The old version is a gorgeous woodframe church, not to be missed.

The Wellington Cathedral of St. Paul’s (above)

Old St. Paul’s (below)

As in the other Kiwi cities I visited, there are interesting examples of new housing. I suspect that upticks in earthquake codes since recent events in Christchurch and Kaikoura are driving this new construction in part, in addition to demand created by a shortage of units. The AirBNB I stayed in was an interesting housing type: a live-work townhouse, with a small storefront downstairs and a studio upstairs. It seemed to be underscaled and a placeholder, but a worthy option. Internal to the block were multiple buildings with three stories of flats. It was well-located near a bohemian entertainment district with buildings left over from the 70's, which connected to the center of things.

A live-work block where I stayed (above)

A range of old and new housing types (below)

Sadly, I missed a good bit in Wellington. Rain, high winds and a bit of exhaustion limited my wandering range to the central city. My priority for my time there was a tour of Parliament, and it was cancelled twice, the second time for the swearing in of the new government. On several levels, during this trip Wellington and I just didn't fully connect. It happens; there is always next time.

Farmers Market on the wharf - the wind was blowing the stands over this day

My next departure was from the grand old train station, with a scenic train leaving early one morning to bring me to Tongariro National Park, where I still had to decide about tackling the famous Tongariro Crossing track.

Wellington Central Station (below)

Below, perhaps my favorite building in New Zealand, on the wharf, and now the New Zealand Portrait Gallery