Brisbane
Departing Peregian Beach to head south to Brisbane, it was easy to catch two local buses to a train line quite a distance southwest and inland, about an hour and an half ride. The "hinterlands" (as they are literally called in Australia) the buses travelled through are the “regular” communities west of the upscale towers along the Sunshine Coast beaches. They look like typical cities in the Midwest U.S., with big box stores, warehouses and housing developments. The electrified train seemingly floated through the countryside, almost silently, and dashed into the very-central Brisbane station Roma Street, which was across the street from where I stayed. All that was needed for this trip was a "Go Card", which I'd been using in Queensland cities since Airlie, and a balance of about A$24. It could not have been simpler.
A “hinterlands’ train station with a agricultural aesthetic - very Queensland
View from my AirBNB, showing new Roma Street station construction and trains entering the station (center left)
Roma Street is at the edge of a rail junction, and is being developed into the city's central rail/bus hub through the "CrossRiverRail" project. A new tunnel under the river will add the the capacity of an existing bridge, relocate the tunnel portal some 4 km south, and push three stations underground plus portions of Roma Street. All four renewed stations are targetted for massive development; in fact, in the vicinity of the southermost station, a new biotech district has already take route. Between this project and general city growth, there is construction absolutely everywhere in Brisbane, but especially across the street from where I stayed. It caused no issue.
On the South Bank
In a city full of bridges, this pedestrian/bicycle bridge stood out
Always, my next step after check in is a walk around the city. Staying in the center meant just a few blocks to walk to reach most everything in the CBD. After a few days of exploring the city, Brisbane felt a bit like a mini-New York, with riverside drives, tall towers, and urban residential neighborhoods with a bit of an edge, just a touch of grittiness that I'd not seen in my limited excursions in Melbourne and Sydney. It also had the topography of so many Australian cities; a developed flat at the water, then steep grade/cliffs demarcating the CBD from other neighborhoods. At several points of the river, the cliffs met the shore, providing scenic settings for riverside walkways and outdoor dining venues.
Sculptures in the plaza at City Hall, home to frequent community markets
The river itself truly is the centerpiece of the city. It's called "the Brown Snake" for all of its twists and turns, and it makes orientation difficult as it carves up the city into several districts and promontories, and encourages bridges everywhere. Numberous ferries are integral to transportation as commuter connections, river crossings and also tourist transportation as a beautiful way to see the city. Waterfront is never far away, although it may be several stories down from an adjancent neighborhood on a cliff. As a result, there are many, many staircases and elevators. Then, riverfront walkways are the rule, perhaps in parks on the shore, perhaps on structures in the river. Sadly, the only system of these walkways that seems less desirable is in the blocks immediately adjacent to the important City Hall/Queen Street shopping district, where I was not able to navigate beyond a few structured vehicle boulevards to make it to the water's edge.
Roma Street Park, with kids and critters at play
Roma Street station is at the foot of a steep grade up, and I went to go explore a new development that helps make that transition, a redeveloped historic military complex at the top, as well as the Roma Street Parkland, also a product of the steep hillside. Lush green rainforests and lawns interspersed with water features made this a stunning place to spend a few hours. The infrastructure of this park - walkway, elevated paths and bridges, support buildings, furnishings, stairs and elevators - were astonishing, and the walkway network connected neighborhoods to the west to the center of the CBD.
A walkway suspended above a rail corridor connects further into the center of the city
I squeezed in a quick jaunt (an hour south on the train from the station across the street) to see Janet and Michael on the Gold Coast, whom I'd met near Melbourne. They kindly chauffered me around several communities of towers on the beach, and pointed out two new art galleries and the private, gated island where the Russian oligarchs' houses were. At a harborside Thai dinner that night, the topic of the referendum to change the constitution (with the election likely in early October) came up. The proposed change would include an Aboriginal "Voice" advising government decisionmakers. It will be a close election, and today it is not clear whether the measure will go through or not. I heard concerns about the potential impacts of permanent change - would it create an elite body within the Aboriginal community? Would it actually advance any help to those in need, or in the end deter it? These and other questions about the consequences of the measure seem very hard to answer. I'd been noticing in recent media the use of fear to get folks to vote against the measure. I stayed over and the next morning we all rode the train north, as Janet and Michael were off to catch a flight at the airport.
Queensland-style wide brim hats adorned the uniforms of both male and female students (how do the trans/non-binary students navigate this?). Always sun protection in mind. Looking at these girls, or the short trousers on 18-year-old “boys”, it would be easy to mistake it for 1950. - Fortitude Valley
Over the next few days, I explored the neighborhoods Fortitude Valley, New Farm and its Powerhouse redeveloped power plant and entertainment center, and the Teneriffe area of redeveloped woolen manufacturing warehouses. I wandered through new development districts with multiple mid-rise residential buildings under construction. New Farm was the gorgeous, green and quiet little haven, all by itself on a peninsula, and would be my choice for a Brisbane residence.
Preserved old department store, Fortitude Valley
On the edge of the new development, South Bank
The one who refused to sell out, so far…
And then it was time to leave not only Brisbane but Australia. I've lived here since the end of May, so it felt very odd to leave. I’d seen cold, arid winter landscapes; cold, rainy rainforests and beaches; world-class cities; the high tropics; tropical rainforests; coral reefs; several islands; the unique creatures the continent is so famous for; and connect with dear old friends and many new ones. I’d come to understand so much of Australia’s history and culture, and wrestled with its many similarities with the U.S. and sometimes stark, sometimes subtle differences. I said some lovely phone goodbyes to people spread out across a continent, then, it was time to navigate the trip to the airport:
I was coming down with what felt like a cold. I'd had so many people cough near me all around Brisbane for the days I was there. I took a COVID test and was so grateful it was negative. I was losing energy quickly but could power through, masked for other people's benefit.
The logistics of a trip like this are endless, and require constant maintenance. A trip to the airport is its own planning project. My flight was at 7pm, so I had some time to kill after check out, and one drawback of AirBNB can the lack of bag storage . An Australian company called Stasher allows you to book a place to drop your bags (I booked a hotel bag check, a Sofitel no less, next to the Central train station) for a reasonable fee, but must be booked online.
While Googling the airport train’s schedule, I learned that the GoCard does not work for the AirTrain to the airport, which was a surprise, as well as that it is best to buy a ticket online at a small discount. However, to get past the fare gates, one must speak with the gate agent - no swiping or code scanning, actually get a busy person’s attention - and the ticket itself will only be scanned upon arrival at the airport by a random guy sans uniform or identification who stops you in a hallway; the airport train must be privatized.
The Air New Zealand plane (smallest seat and legroom ever) lifted off the runway into a dark night over the Tasman Sea, leaving behind a country and a continent that won my heart, and heading towards its tiny two-island sister nation.
